{"id":1219,"date":"1995-06-30T15:52:32","date_gmt":"1995-06-30T12:52:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/?p=1219"},"modified":"2016-12-10T07:03:21","modified_gmt":"2016-12-10T05:03:21","slug":"the-solitary-cyclist-in-ireland","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/1995\/06\/30\/the-solitary-cyclist-in-ireland\/","title":{"rendered":"The Solitary Cyclist in Ireland"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sometime in late 1994 or early 1995 in New York City, I bought a touring bike, a Trek 525, with the intention of touring parts of Western Ireland that I knew to be Yeat’s country. A novice at touring, I did know I would be facing wind, rain, and hills, so I began training in earnest around New York, riding mostly in the hills of Northern New Jersey. By degrees, I loaded my panniers with more and more weight, and picked rainy days and hills to accustom myself to the rigors I would encounter in Ireland. When the time came, I disassembled my bike and packed it in cardboard. Aer Lingus was good about checking my bike and gear, and the Shannon Airport authorities had no problem letting me assemble my bike in a quiet corner and even stored my packing materials until I returned. What follows are the notes I made in my travel journal of that adventure. Fortunately, I took photos with my Nikon SLR, and I\u2019ve used some to illustrate my notes.<\/em><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

It was my first bicycle tour, and I was alone. In the course of my journey I created myself as the Solitary Cyclist with the following behaviors and attributes. The Solitary Cyclist<\/em><\/p>\n

\"cows-looking-at-me\"<\/p>\n

\u2026 talks to the cows and the sheep,<\/em><\/p>\n

\"green-fieldlakemountain\"<\/p>\n

\u2026 speaks to nature,<\/em><\/p>\n

\"connemara-3\"<\/p>\n

\u2026 speaks his thoughts without anyone overhearing him,<\/em><\/p>\n

\"footpath-between-walls\"<\/p>\n

\u2026 stops an<\/em>d listens \u2013 only natural sounds are audible; sheep, cows, sometimes donkeys, many different kinds of birds, and, of course, the wind and running water.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"roadside-shrine\"<\/p>\n

The Solitary Cyclist rides the up country and then: a special feeling of isolation, a good feeling.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"friendly-lady-on-her-wall\"<\/p>\n

The S.C. enjoys the fact that he can stop a bicycle where he can\u2019t stop a car. Nor is his view of the surroundings obstructed by the roof line of a car.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"golden-bushes\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

There are smells: fresh cut fields, scents of flowers.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"lake-wisland\"<\/p>\n

So much is happening in what is commonly thought of as empty countryside.There\u2019s so much life. So much to look at.<\/em><\/p>\n

5\/25\/95<\/p>\n

New York City<\/p>\n

Clammy weather. Trip started on a down note. At the moment the car service was to arrive, someone called to say the car wouldn\u2019t be coming. I scurried out to find a Yellow Cab. We put my bike box in the rear seat while I sat up front. Slow trip to Kennedy, but once there, things went smoothly.<\/p>\n

5\/26<\/p>\n

Shannon Airport to Galway by Bus<\/p>\n

Cool \u2013 rainy. Arrived at Shannon Airport as the sun was shinning, but by the time I was half done assembling my bike, the rain had started. Bike assembly went slowly due to several false steps. I had the company of a young American couple from NJ who were doing the same. He assembled both their bikes while I was still working on mine. Much of the day I suffered from sleep deprivation. Had to take 2 buses to get to Galway<\/em> and arrived in the pouring rain. Abandoned my plan to call the B&B and sought the quickest shelter. It\u2019s true that the Irish are extremely friendly.<\/p>\n

\"Galway\"
Galway<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The reputation for Irish weather’s fickleness\u00a0 is true also. Late in day it turned nice. Took a ride and bought a towel. Took a walk and had dinner at Conlon & Sons’ Seafood Restaurant in Englington Street.<\/p>\n

5\/27<\/p>\n

Galway to Coole Park to Thoor Ballylee to Galway<\/p>\n

\"Coole
Coole Park<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sun, clouds, wind. Decided to visit Coole Park<\/em> (20 miles away) and Yeats\u2019 medieval tower<\/em> home. Took bicycle along N6 & N18 \u2013 no small roads to take. Wind almost defeated me. Stopped in Clarinbridge where I write this among some old trees. Lovely spot. In the center there is a monument in the shape of an Irish cross to the memory of one Thomas Redington, KGB who died in 1802. Wind, wind, wind and then rain mixed with wind; it\u2019s a trial. Coole Park is worth it, though. Great interpretive center, videos and slide films. The park is splendid. Learned what a Turloch<\/em> is. Nice food in the caf\u00e9 \u2013 Irish scones are better than the US variety.<\/p>\n

\"Thoor
Thoor Ballylee<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At Thoor Ballylee<\/em>, Yeats\u2019 tower house, I ate rhubarb pie with cream and talked with the chef. Both sites are terrific \u2013 wonderful background material. The ride home with the wind at my back was much easier. But, as I write this after a shower and fish & chips dinner, I feel the fatigue. It\u2019s a good feeling, though, to have done the first ride.<\/p>\n

5\/28<\/p>\n

Galway to Inishmore in the Aran Islands<\/p>\n

Sun, wind, rain. Irish food is on the bland side. No surprise, really. What does surprise is the quality of the baking. Scones, tarts, Jonathans, pies, cakes \u2013 all delicious. Staying in the West End Hostel<\/em>, a kind of flop house for the young, but located near the Claddagh Quay<\/em> and Spanish Arch<\/em> and the mouth of the River Corrib<\/em>. Water everywhere, weirs, sluices, dramatic views, fast water, flowers, lowering skies.<\/p>\n

\"Galway
Galway Weir<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After breakfast I loaded up, left the West End Hostel, and traveled through Salt Hill towards Rossaveel. The wind was terrific, and I realized that I didn\u2019t want to fight it for 20 miles. Back in Galway I caught a bus to the ferry at Rossaveel. I was glad I\u2019d made the decision as the road had no shoulder and too much traffic (R100). In Inishmore I first visited the interpretive center then rode to Cregmount House where I stayed with Margaret and Michael Connelly<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"Dun
Dun Aengus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Visited Dun Aengus <\/em>in late afternoon. Took pictures of the fabulous prehistoric fort. The wind and intermittent rain drove me back downhill before long. Memories of Belle-Ile<\/em> in Brittany.<\/p>\n

I was glad to get back to the Connelly\u2019s. Took time to sort my things and look ahead to future adventures. Mrs. C. made me dinner of salmon steak, boiled green beans & carrots, and boiled potatoes. Loads of food! Finished with rhubarb pie. Talked all evening with Mr. Connelly about life on the island. He gave me a glass of poteen<\/em>. I slept in a bed with heavy blankets; it was very satisfying.<\/p>\n

\"aran-flat-stone\"<\/p>\n

The geology of the Aran Islands is fascinating. I learned about limestone; that it\u2019s made of the carcasses and shells of ancient sea creatures. It is porous; water seeps into it and erodes it from within. These islands are made of layers of limestone separated by layers of shale. Water can flow underground through limestone channels then well up when it meets shale. It forms ____ like Coole Loch, lakes that dry up almost entirely in the dry seasons but flood when the rains come.<\/p>\n

5\/29<\/p>\n

Inishmore to Inishmaan to Inishmore<\/p>\n

Clouds, rain, sun. After a light breakfast, I rode back to Kilrornan<\/em> and took the small boat to the island of Inishmaan<\/em>. Before leaving I visited the Seven Churches<\/em>, ancient ruins dating from the 8th<\/sup> century.<\/p>\n

\"Ruined
Ruined Churches<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Talked to a character on the boat who collected postal cancellation stamps. Deep voice and a non-stop talker. Inishmaan has few people.<\/p>\n

\"Inishmaan\"
Inishmaan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There are stone walls everywhere. It\u2019s a study in half tones. Grey on grey, especially when the weather is cloudy. Walls are more intricate than on Inishmore. Ate a light meal of scones and tea. Walked a lot. Photographed Synge\u2019s cottage and his Seat<\/em>, a circular arrangement of stones he made on the cliffs overlooking Inishmore and the sea. In this windy spot he\u2019d sit and brood. Am staying at the Hostel Mainistir<\/em> in Inishmore this night. It\u2019s a beauty and the food is reported to be good. It is good, run by a black man who programs his own eclectic choice of music and cooks vegetarian food. (I remember listening to the voice of Pearl Bailey singing.)<\/p>\n

5\/30<\/p>\n

Inishmore to Rossaveel to Maam Cross<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Showers, but mostly fair and windy. On the ferry from Inishmore to Rossaveel the morning sun has turned to dark clouds, cold. Ashore on Connemara<\/p>\n

\"Connemara\"
Connemara<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

the limestone is replaced by granite. I have difficulty making those I ask for directions understand that I want to take a \u201cbog road.\u201d Frustrating false starts \u2013 rain, then no rain. Have to keep changing clothes. Finally, on a bog road, but not the right one. I\u2019m met a native with bad teeth on a bicycle. Five miles or so over a bog, very pleasant.<\/p>\n

\"Peat
Peat Diggers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Saw a couple of men cutting peat. Took pics. Then on the main road, then on another small road that had some very steep climbs. Finally got near Pearse\u2019s Cottage<\/em> and stopped for lunch at a fancy country inn, The Screebe House<\/em>. 2 p.m. The meal was a cold buffet, something the Stoners would appreciate. This will be a memorable trip. Rode to Pearse\u2019s Cottage. Closed. 11K out of my way. Rode final 8K to Maam Cross<\/em>. Feeling very tired but am going through beautiful country \u2013 lakes and streams. At M.C there is a gift shop, gas station, and bar\/restaurant called Peacockes<\/em>. There is also a hostel. Had to go to the bar to find someone to set me up. The hostel building itself is unoccupied. I\u2019ll be the only tenant. It\u2019s cold and damp inside. Am spending the evening at Peacockes drinking Guinness, writing post cards, planning my trip, etc. There\u2019s a wonderful peat fire so the room is warm and cozy. It\u2019s only 7:15 p.m. and I\u2019m tired. I miss the camaraderie of last night in the hostel. My roommates: the disaffected priest who lives in California and helps the homeless, the young Italian from Sardinia, the German boy studying in England to be a documentary filmmaker.<\/p>\n

Peacockes at Maam Cross: Good restaurant and bar ably run by young Irish woman. They close it at night and open it in the morning. Seems that it\u2019s the Irish women that hold things together.<\/p>\n

5\/31<\/p>\n

Maam Cross to Cong<\/p>\n

Cloudy. Slept well in the hostel at M.C. Even though cold and damp, I covered myself with two eiderdowns and I was warm. Slept about 9 hours. Peacockes for breakfast then up the road toward Cong. Stopping to write at a crossroads. Standing on the north branch of the Bealanabrack River<\/em> that runs into Lake Corrib<\/em>. Looking at the vista presented by the Maumturk Mountains<\/em> through which I just rode. The water in the streams and rivers is crystal clear. Although the overall color of the landscape is muted green and grey, when I look closely there are many wildflowers: tiny violets, lavender brambles, little bright yellow blossoms on evergreen shrubs. Also there are lots of rhododendrons, magenta. I even saw a rose bush and also lots of daisies.<\/p>\n

\"Cong\"
Cong<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Made it to Cong by early afternoon. The ride along the top of Lake Corrib is beautiful. The hostel at Cong is extraordinarily well run, like a business. Clean, comfortable dorm, lovely bathroom and shower with real hot water (unlike the morning), spacious kitchen. Everything bright. The people who run the place are even doing my laundry. I\u2019ve already decided to stay for two nights. Lots to read about around here. Also, this may be the first day without rain. I\u2019m sitting in the dining room writing post cards while others are having snacks, reading, etc. There is even a bearded fellow in the corner working on a power book (Not a common sight in those days.)<\/p>\n

Last night\u2019s dinner of baked trout and vegetables was excellent, but I feel I\u2019m eating too much. I had a light lunch today, and I will eat a light dinner also.<\/p>\n

Ate heavier than I should have. Back at the hostel some of us watched John Ford\u2019s The Quiet Man<\/em> (1952) in the TV room. Many of the movie\u2019s locations are in the vicinity of Cong. I recognized some bits \u2013 the cross in the roundabout and the protestant church.<\/p>\n

Slept in a dormitory with several other fellows. A young Korean sleeping on the top bunk opposite me fell out of bed in the night with a crash.<\/p>\n

6\/1<\/p>\n

Cong and Around<\/p>\n

\"Loch
Loch Mask<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sun and clouds, warm. Sitting on limestone at the foot of Loch Mask<\/em> reading Dostoevsky. This is our nicest day yet. Slept well in Cong hostel. Short ride along lanes this morning then through private road to this secluded spot. Only a few anglers are about in the distance. I hear only the gull-like birds wheeling about the lake. Also the sound of water rushing over the nearby weir into a canal.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Innishmaine
Innishmaine Abbey Church<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Visited the ancient Inishmaine Abbey,<\/em> 13th<\/sup> century, in ruins, of course. (St Corbmac founded the first church here in the 7th<\/sup> century.) Some lovely carving remains. This is off the beaten path. No one but myself is about. Just cows.<\/p>\n

\"Me
Me with Seok-Woong Park<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Back at the hostel, the only one left in my dorm is the young Korean hitchhiker, Seok-Woong Park<\/em>. He attached himself to me. He\u2019s a student, of tourism I think, who\u2019s spending 4 or 5 months traveling in Europe and the UK. He has very little money and eats a dish of rice and a piece of fruit for dinner. He adds some hot sauce he brought from home. We rode into town and I bought him a Guinness. The others at the hostel are all geology students and their instructor. They go off each day with their hammers and maps to do field work.<\/p>\n

6\/2<\/p>\n

Cong to Westport<\/p>\n

Heavy, gray sky. This is my day to cycle up the western shore of Loch Mask<\/em>. I know I have a climb ahead of me up to 400 feet, I believe. I don\u2019t know how far I\u2019ll get. I could stay in Toormakeady<\/em>. Otherwise I\u2019ll have to ride to Westport<\/em> and I\u2019m not sure I can make it. I\u2019m writing this at the Ferry Bridge at the foot of Loch Mask. The air is still and there are bird sounds everywhere. Truly peaceful! Loch Mask was somewhat disappointing. Because of the weather it was not beautiful. I ate lunch in Toormakeady, and it started to rain. I made good time, but the last fifteen miles into Westport was very wet. I found the Atlantic Club Hostel without difficulty and settled in to dry out. I cut one side of my large plastic contractor\u2019s bag to protect my bike. Later, when the rain eased I walked into Westport Center, nice town. Ate dinner in a family-style restaurant and spent rest of evening at a pub, Mac Malloy\u2019s<\/em> on Bridge Street. Sat at bar with an American couple from Kansas City. He\u2019s treasurer of a cement company. Place got terribly crowded. (This pub was owned by one of the Chieftains, who often played and sang there.)<\/p>\n

6\/3<\/p>\n

Westport<\/p>\n

Cloudy, showers. Westport \u2013 By morning, the rain has stopped, although still grey. Today my project is to figure out my next move. Because I\u2019m facing a bank holiday weekend, I\u2019ve decided to take a 4 p.m. bus to Ballin_____. This will get me within a day\u2019s cycling of Carrick-on-Shannon<\/em>. Walked a lot around Westport. Watched the Prince-of-Wales go by in a convoy. (He had a holiday near here.) Bought a very nice small rucksack to tie onto the back of the bike to replace my contractor\u2019s bag, which I\u2019ll keep for protection. Walked to the harbor and then to Westport House. Although it\u2019s attractive and friendly, Westport doesn\u2019t capture my imagination the way Galway did. Sheppard\u2019s pie for lunch in a Westport caf\u00e9. Grouse is the shrub with yellow flowers that I see so much of along the road. Decision is made. Sligo tomorrow by bus. Rode back to Westport House for ____. Loved it.<\/p>\n

\"yeats-autobiographies\"<\/p>\n

Bought Yeats\u2019 autobiography. Dinner where I had lunch — Circe<\/em> at the top of Bridge Street. Met pleasant Irish couple from Dublin. We talked all evening.<\/p>\n

6\/4<\/p>\n

Westport to Louisburg to Sligo<\/p>\n

Cloudy \u2013 sun in afternoon. Up early. Packed to leave. Rode to Louisburg<\/em> — 22 K, farther than I thought. Not enough time to stay long. Had to return to Westport for 3:15 bus. Much of ride along Clew Bay<\/em>, very pretty. Stopped at Croagh Patrick<\/em> and watched the pilgrims climbing the steep path to the summit. Took the bus from Westport to Sligo. I\u2019m writing this in Knock<\/em> at midday where I change buses.<\/p>\n

\"Knock\"
Knock<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Here there is an enormous Catholic basilica consecrated to Our Lady. This is the site of a late 19th<\/sup> century visitation. I\u2019ve arrived just at the moment of the Sunday evening service. In addition, it is Pentecost Sunday, and there is a huge outdoor service. I\u2019ve photographed the procession set to music from great outdoor speakers. Very impressive with hundreds of people!<\/p>\n

\"Yeats
Yeats at Sligo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

First impression of Sligo<\/em> is that it\u2019s a tough town with none of the charm of Westport. I found a B&B after some difficulty and am eating dinner at the Hotel Silver Swan<\/em>. Classy! There was a race meeting nearby today and the place is full of high-spirited folks. Also, the music, a gathering of Irish musicians called a c\u00e9il\u00ed<\/em>. Three groups are performing impromptu in the hotel bar and lounge. I even witnessed some dancing. My timing has been excellent today.<\/p>\n

I feel like riding. Tomorrow I\u2019ll do the ride to Ballyshannon<\/em>. I\u2019m enjoying Yeats\u2019 Autobiographies<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Budweiser is a popular imported beer here.<\/p>\n

More than any other ethnic group, I\u2019m encountering Germans.<\/p>\n

6\/5<\/p>\n

Sligo to Ballyshannon<\/p>\n

\"Drumclife
Drumclife Churchyard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Low clouds, sun later. Yeats country. Drumcliff Church<\/em> where he is buried is very picturesque.<\/p>\n

\"Ben
Ben Bulben<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ben Bulben<\/em> is swathed in mist and the grey crows are crying in the trees. The impression is dramatic. There\u2019s a lovely tea shop where I\u2019m writing. Soon I\u2019ll take the road to Ballyshannon. I wish I had time to read all the interesting books I\u2019ve come across.<\/p>\n

Arrived Ballyshannon about 4:30 p.m. Great riding today. People burn coal for heat here in Ireland. Spent a couple of pleasant hours at Sean Og\u2019s<\/em> pub. Met Patricia and Jim and their family. Eating at Maggie\u2019s Bar<\/em>. Sirloin steak not so hot. Went to sleep early at my B&B. Ireland\u2019s the only place I\u2019ve ever been where someone will stop you on the street and start a conversation.<\/p>\n

6\/6<\/p>\n

Ballyshannon to Derry to Buncrana<\/p>\n

Rain, rain, rain! Woke up to rain and very thick overcast. Not beautiful. Weather helped me make decision to bus to Derry<\/em> and explore the Inishowen Peninsula<\/em>.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Beach
Beach on the Inishowen Peninsula<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It\u2019s about as far up in Donegal<\/em> as I can get. In the meantime, I had my laundry done and mailed a package to U.S. with my second pair of bike shoes along with other odds & ends. \u00a0(Unbeknownst to me, I mistakenly sent back my return plane ticket in this package. This would cause me problems later.) Spent time reading Yeats in a coffee shop till the bus left. Bus driver drove too fast for comfort. Sky cleared in the mountains and in the rolling hills into Derry. Rode from Derry to Buncrana<\/em>, only 15 K, but with rain and against the wind. Also, on main road with too much traffic. Another B&B, Swilly Home<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Walked in the town, very nice and prosperous. Fruit-of-the-Loom factories here. Eating at Lake of Shadows Hotel<\/em>.<\/p>\n

6\/7<\/p>\n

Buncrana to Ballyliffn<\/p>\n

Clouds, sun, showers. Buncrana. Wakened by the Sun. Surprise. Didn\u2019t last long. Went out early for a long walk before breakfast. Met an old man with two dogs. We talked. I wished him a nice day to which he replied that it\u2019s rained every day for three months so there wasn\u2019t much chance of that. Buncrana\u2019s a wealthy looking little town. In the 14th<\/sup> century, the clan chief O’Dochertaigh<\/em> built a castle on the shore. Today, there are some walls remaining across a beautiful old stone, six-arched bridge.<\/p>\n

\"mamore-gap\"<\/p>\n

Ballyliffn<\/em>. 1 p.m. stopped for lunch at a hotel. I rode hard this morning, through the hills and finally had to climb through the Gap of Mamore<\/em>, maybe 1000 feet. Had to push the bike at least kilometer up hill. Wonderful spot though. Will take it easier this afternoon. Some of the views here are terrific. Weather is cooperating.<\/p>\n

The Irish are not naturally great cooks. Frequently a dish represents a good idea but tastes bland. They need to learn to season their food and use marinades, etc.<\/p>\n

Reading Yeats\u2019 autobiographical writing. He struggled to get away from generalizations and abstraction. He was frequently frustrated with his inability to find enough dramatic images.<\/p>\n

Red fox. Jackdaw. Buttery. Daisy.<\/p>\n

6\/8<\/p>\n

Carndonagh to Derry<\/p>\n

Cold, Cloudy, Mist. Carndonagh. Left after breakfast. Slept well, but I still felt tired. Also, wasn\u2019t looking forward to the ride through the mountains. As it turned out, it wasn\u2019t bad. Gradual climbs. Then, finally, a very exhilarating 5 mile run down the mountain on a smooth road with the wind behind me. To Quigley\u2019s Point<\/em> in record time, 16 K in less than one hour. When I arrived at the bottom of the long run, I found a tiny shop and post office where two elderly ladies gave me a cup of tea.<\/p>\n

\"Grave
Grave Diggers in Derry<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

What a day! Rode to Derry just in time for a bus to Donegal Town<\/em>. Stayed out long enough for a bowl of soup, after which I rode to Ballyshannon<\/em> and back to Jennifer Brown\u2019s B&B<\/em>. Half way to Ballyshannon over the hills on lanes, through the Pullens<\/em>. In Ballyshannon I walked about 4 miles with my camera. Saw the abbey and the mills. Had long talk with the ___ of the mills. Ate dinner at the Imperial Hotel<\/em> in an empty dining room listening to a medley of pop classical music.<\/p>\n

6\/9<\/p>\n

Ballyshannon to Kinlough to Dromahair<\/p>\n

Dark, cloudy. Ballyshannon to Kinlough<\/em> over the River Drowes<\/em> where there is a monument to the \u201c4 Masters\u201d who compiled a history of Ireland up to 1616. Tough ride over the hills to start. From Kinlough I took a classified road almost to Manorhamilton<\/em> but cut off on a lane and had to face some terrific climbing. Went this far, in fact, and when I rejoined the main road I had to travel back for a mile to get the classified road to Dromahair<\/em>. More climbing and I felt at the end of my strength when I reached a signpost and hesitated studying the map. The sign pointed to Dromahair along a narrow, pot-holed road that from experience told me more climbing. I continued a short distance on the Sligo road thinking that I might hit a better road, but then turned back and took the first. It was in terrible shape but all downhill to Dromahair for several kilometers. Dromahair is a lovely village where I ate a big lunch: carbonnade<\/em> of beef with peas, carrots and mashed potatoes. Decided to stay here. Unloaded my bike and cycled out to Loch Gill<\/em> and Innisfree<\/em>. After a cold, cloudy start, the weather improved greatly. Now, there came sun and clouds.<\/p>\n

Departures<\/em> by Brian Leyden, Brandon (publisher), 1992, Lyons Bookstore.<\/p>\n

Dromahair to Sligo<\/p>\n

\"Island
Island of Innisfree in Loch Gill<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The ride out to Innisfree past the old, ruined abbey was wonderful. Beautiful weather and lonely lanes with a view east across a green valley. Loch Gill looks unspoiled, a minimum of development. Innisfree stands just offshore, a tiny island overgrown with shrubs. I was alone but for a friendly sheep dog belonging to a nearby cottage. Back at the Stanford Inn<\/em> for Guinness and conversation with the owner, of course, and his daughter who worked the bar, then with a succession of patrons. I met a young short story writer and his wife and later an American expatriate from Indiana who is a publishing consultant. He lives in Dromahair. The writer, Brian Leyden<\/em>, changed my itinerary, suggesting I ride into Sligo (only 10 miles) stopping at Parke\u2019s Castle<\/em> and visiting Glencar Falls<\/em> and Rosses Point<\/em> all Yeats sites. I can easily get a bus from Sligo to Galway and then to the airport.<\/p>\n

\"Parke's
Parke’s Castle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Later in Sligo \u2013 As it turned out Parke\u2019s Castle was wonderful, a great and thorough job of reconstruction. I learned a lot about the insecurities of a 17th<\/sup> century English lord who faced a hostile indigenous population that he had dispossessed. In Sligo I checked bus schedules with the Transit Bureau and returned to my former B&B (Doris Horan\u2019s)<\/em>. I spent a good hour visiting the ruined Dominican Abbey<\/em> in Sligo Town — More complete than most with a unique carved altar and the remains of a rood screen. Riding around Sligo Town on this or an earlier occasion, I came upon a street filled with tinkers who shouted threatening insults at me.<\/p>\n

\"Megalithic
Megalithic Tomb at Carrpwmore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a rest I cycled out to Carrowmore<\/em> to look at the Megalithic<\/em> tombs. It was very windy and cloudy and the tip of Knockarea<\/em> with its cairn was hidden from view. Got lost coming back and ended up cycling on the main road. Not pleasant. Ate dinner at the Silver Swan Hotel<\/em>, then went to the cinema and saw Rob Roy<\/em>. Story and script were mediocre. The actors provided what interest there was.<\/p>\n

6\/11<\/p>\n

Sligo to Rosses Point to Limerick<\/p>\n

Cloudy, sun later on, but still too cold. Did my last ride of the holiday. Turned left out of the driveway of my B&B and rode out to Rosses Point, but I\u2019m not sure Yeats would recognize it. Lots of development.<\/p>\n

\"bike-bus-1\"<\/p>\n

Took the bus to Galway in the afternoon with Dov Leary.<\/em> Nice to chat with him. Took another bus to Limerick<\/em> under a blue, almost cloudless sky \u2013 a miracle. Arrived 8:05 p.m. Found a B&B across from the station. Took my bike and toured Limerick \u2013 13th<\/sup> century castle, old church, a cathedral, alms houses, beautiful Shannon River<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Back at the B&B I entered the pub and had a roaring time with some locals, singing American songs of the West. Stayed up too late.<\/p>\n

6\/12<\/p>\n

Limerick to Shannon Airport<\/p>\n

Beautiful, sunny. Took a 7 a.m. bus to Shannon Airport<\/em> after a cold shower. Discovered I had lost my airline ticket. Retrieved my box and disassembled my bike outdoors in the sun. Paid to have my ticket reissued. Lunch in the airport restaurant. (At first I couldn\u2019t comprehend that I had lost my plane ticket. I searched through everything three times. Finally, I went to the counter and coughed up 30 pounds or so for a reissued ticket.)<\/p>\n

Shared the flight home with a lovely woman from Cleveland, Mary McGuiness. Promised to send her literature about the Forum<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Landed at Kennedy in the rain. Taxi to Manhattan.<\/p>\n

In a melancholy mood. The trip is over.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve almost finished reading Yeats\u2019 Autobiographies<\/em>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sometime in late 1994 or early 1995 in New York City, I bought a touring bike, a Trek 525, with the intention of touring parts of Western Ireland that I knew to be Yeat’s country. A novice at touring, I did know I would be facing wind, rain, and hills, so I began training in … Continue reading The Solitary Cyclist in Ireland<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":""},"categories":[17,22],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1219"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1219"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1219\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1257,"href":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1219\/revisions\/1257"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1219"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1219"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1219"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}