{"id":299,"date":"2010-05-10T15:04:52","date_gmt":"2010-05-10T12:04:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/?p=299"},"modified":"2016-10-31T11:30:34","modified_gmt":"2016-10-31T09:30:34","slug":"walking-the-lycian-way","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/2010\/05\/10\/walking-the-lycian-way\/","title":{"rendered":"Walking the Lycian Way"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>April &#8212; May, 2010<\/p>\n<p><em>For me, the Lycian Way, so named because it traverses a region along southern Turkey\u2019s Mediterranean Coast that was once ancient Lycia, was a rugged, 500-kilometer, trekking challenge that Britain\u2019s Sunday Times rates as one of the world\u2019s ten best walks.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Could I do it? Were my spirit and 67-year-old body up to this kind of an adventure? My only previous long-distance walk had been a week in Scotland, and that walk had been supported. Others had transported my luggage from one B &amp; B to the next, and I always ate in fine restaurants and slept warmly between clean sheets. I also had the companionship of Kay and our American friends Mike and Judy.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>The Lycian Way would be different. I would be alone and carrying everything I needed on my back. I had to be prepared to camp at those times when no other refuge could be found. I gave myself a month this past April to walk as far I could, and in fact I stopped after 24 days. During that time I covered 15 of the Lycian Way\u2019s 28 routes or segments for a total of about 240 kilometers. I had some uncomfortable moments, but, on balance, it was a positive and memorable experience. What follows are some excerpts from the journal I kept while walking. They give a pretty good sense of what my days were like.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p><strong>1st day. Ovac\u0131k to Faralya. 15 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>2:30 pm: I\u2019ve stopped to rest and eat a bit of bread and cheese. I\u2019m not far from the village of Faralya, my day\u2019s destination. I\u2019m very tired \u2013 all over \u2013 but especially in the feet, which are burning. Hours of walking over sharp stones have taken its toll. The weather has been mostly cloudy and mercifully cool. The landscape, ever changing, is beautiful.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_301\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-301\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-301\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0169-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Nezla &amp; Bayran of Gul Pansiyon\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0169-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0169-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0169-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-301\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nezla &amp; Bayran of Gul Pansiyon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>6:45 pm: My room at the G\u00fcl Pansiyon is freezing. Arrived 3:30 \u2013 showered, washed clothes, napped. Now I\u2019m preparing to eat. This was a long, difficult day. I wish I\u2019d had my hiking poles, especially on the last downhill stretch.<\/p>\n<p>Dinner: brown trout, fries, tarhana soup, and salad. Good and filling.<\/p>\n<p><strong>2nd day. Faralya to Kabak Beach. 11 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>9:30 am: Started half hour ago. Steep climb out of Faralya. Stopped to rest. Way above village still hear cocks crowing and putt-putt of scooters. Sunny, cool. Hope it lasts.<\/p>\n<p>Met Sandra and Micha, a young German couple from Berlin \u2013 the first long-distance walkers I\u2019ve met. We\u2019re going in same direction but at different speeds. Meet at rest stops.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_302\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-302\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-302\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0173-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Kybak Beach\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0173-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0173-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0173-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-302\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kybak Beach<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>4 pm: Staying at a quasi-campground behind Kabak (Zucchini) Beach called Shanti Garden. Hasan, wild-eyed but young and energetic, is the proprietor. I have a canvas-covered A-frame with bed and bedding. There are separate toilets and showers. It\u2019s like being at summer camp. Beautiful day, beautiful spot! My washed clothes are dry. Went to the beach, swam briefly and lay on the sand. Warmth felt very good on my sore leg muscles. View of the mountain background from the beach is stunning, sheer-sided, grey, streaked with light brown.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_303\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-303\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-303\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0177-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Shanti Garden A-frames\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0177-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0177-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0177-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-303\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shanti Garden A-frames<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>3<sup>rd<\/sup> day. Kabak Beach to Al\u0131n\u00e7a. 11 kilometers <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Easter Sunday. The climb today was a killer. I missed a turn and lost my way. Fortunately, I met two Israelis, Avner and Sharon. With them I backtracked a short way and found the trail. More climbing. Al\u0131n\u00e7a village is perched at the top of the mountain separating Kabak Bay from Yedi Burun (Seven Noses).<\/p>\n<p>I was done in by the time we found Bayram &amp; Bircan\u2019s house and their large family. Bayram has a few \u201c<em>bungalov<\/em>\u201d (what we would call cabins in the States) and will provide dinner and breakfast. Spent time talking to my Israeli acquaintances. Took a shower and washed my T-shirt. Going up the mountain today, I felt like a Sherpa.<\/p>\n<p><strong>4<sup>th<\/sup> day. Al\u0131n\u00e7a to Bo\u011fazi\u00e7i and Sidyma. 11 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>9:40 am: Leaving Al\u0131n\u00e7a I walked with Avner and Sharon quite a distance on an asphalt road. No shade but easy walking. I didn\u2019t mind a bit. We met some Germans walking from the other direction and discussed routes. A &amp; S are bound for the village of Gey while I want to take the alternate route and camp near the Roman ruins of Sidyma. At the village of Bo\u011fazi\u00e7i we separated. Good guys! I found a tiny shop and bought a bar of soap, nuts, cheese, crackers, sausages and a candy bar. Then it was off the pavement and uphill. The countryside has been fantastic. Views of the sea and wide valley with pine trees and wild flowers. I saw some blue irises.<\/p>\n<p>1:50 pm: I\u2019m stopped at a grassy spot under a tree. It\u2019s sunny, and there\u2019s a cool breeze. Bushes around me look like oleanders, but with dry, brown flowers. Perhaps new buds haven\u2019t formed yet.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_305\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-305\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-305\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0197-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Sidyma\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0197-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0197-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0197-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-305\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sidyma<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>3:25 pm: Arrived Sidyma. At the home of \u0130nur and Ibrahim \u2013 elderly couple with a room for rent. I was planning to camp, but we\u2019ll see.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_306\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-306\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-306\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0205-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Where I Stayed in Sidyma \" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0205-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0205-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0205-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-306\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Where I Stayed in Sidyma<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Later: I\u2019ve taken the room. This old couple is very poor. The house and grounds look messy and disorganized. Dinner came very early: <em>bakla<\/em> (broad beans with tomato sauce), spinach chopped, mixed with rice and topped with yogurt, salad, and bread).<\/p>\n<p>5:30 pm: I\u2019ve eaten dinner. There are things to see here, but I\u2019m too tired to go look at them. Maybe tomorrow. As I came into the village, I passed the old Roman necropolis. Imposing sarcophagi still standing.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130nur is moving around, filling a watering can, and watering her plants. Growing things is a serious business. These people eat what they grow.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s different being out here in the deep country. There\u2019s almost no motor traffic, yet the air is full of sound. Birds and the sounds of animals: cows, goats, chickens and roosters.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_307\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-307\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-307\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0208-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Reuse of Antique Stones\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0208-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0208-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0208-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-307\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reuse of Antique Stones<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The village has been built on top of ancient Sidyma. \u0130nur\u2019s house stands right at the center, a small public square still called the Agora. There are bits of Lycian, Greek and Roman Sidyma everywhere: building blocks, wall fragments, sarcophagi. The villagers have incorporated these dressed stones in their walls and gardens. Very interesting. I\u2019m glad I came this way.<\/p>\n<p><strong>5<sup>th<\/sup> day. Sidyma to Bel and Belce\u011fiz. 11 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The walk from Sidyma to Bel, which means \u201cpass\u201d in Turkish, was uphill through a dry riverbed. Then on a dirt road and a stretch through a forest.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_319\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-319\" style=\"width: 421px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\" wp-image-319\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0274-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"On the Way to Bel\" width=\"421\" height=\"561\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0274-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0274-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0274.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 421px) 100vw, 421px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-319\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">On the Way to Bel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>A <em>\u00e7oban<\/em> (shepherd) invited me for tea, and his wife wanted me to stay in their house. However, I was intent on camping further along near Belce\u011fiz. The walk up to there was magnificent \u2013 gorgeous views of valley with snow-covered peaks in distance.<\/p>\n<p>4:25 pm: Sun obscured by dark clouds. My camp \u2013 such as it is \u2013 is set up. I\u2019ve had a visit from a shepherd from Bel in search of a lost goat. I offered him tea and he refilled my water bottle and offered me some cake his wife had made for him.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_309\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-309\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-309\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0217-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"My Camp at Bel\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0217-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0217-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0217-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-309\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">My Camp at Bel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Early evening: I have company. Jaume, from Catalonia, and Gabi, his German girlfriend have arrived to make camp nearby. Jaume jokingly says he\u2019s retired. Over tea, I learn that he\u2019s a bricklayer with income from a rental property that allows him freedom from work. I cooked <em>socuk<\/em> (Turkish sausage) over a fire I made.<\/p>\n<p><strong>6<sup>th<\/sup> day. Belce\u011fiz to Pydnai. 12 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>I passed a rough night. The tarp I sleep under is not a tent and a cold wind gusted all night. I slept on and off until 6:30. As I was packing up one of the odd shepherd characters came by to watch. He led me to his dwelling and gave me water from his cistern.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_310\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-310\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-310\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0218-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Shepherds\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0218-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0218-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0218-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-310\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shepherds<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I left without breakfast and made my longest and most precipitous descent yet. Treacherous! I arrived at the village of Gavural\u0131\u011f\u0131 where I had expected to find a pension. There was nothing except a few dilapidated houses and a trail overgrown with waist-high daisy-like flowers and weeds.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_311\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-311\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-311\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0223-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Ramazan\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0223-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0223-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0223-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-311\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ramazan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The only person I found in Gavural\u0131\u011f\u0131 was Ramazan, 78 years old and living alone. I rested on his terrace. He gave me an orange and an apple. Tried calling Kay. No service.<\/p>\n<p>Walked over the mountains to Pydnai. Very steep and difficult. On this stretch I came across the carcass of a sheep that had been recently killed by a carnivore \u2013 a wolf or mountain lion perhaps. Its hindquarters had been eaten. Scary to think such an animal might be roaming around where I camp.<\/p>\n<p>Bypassed the Pydnai ruins and on the beach I met Jaume and Gabi again. They had taken a shortcut.<\/p>\n<p>5:40 pm: The three of us are waiting for a dolmu\u015f to the town of K\u0131n\u0131k where we hope to find a good pansiyon or hotel and get cleaned up. We\u2019re exhausted.<\/p>\n<p>Bad news! No pansiyon in K\u0131n\u0131k. It\u2019s not much of a place. We need to go on to Patara, but the last dolmu\u015f has left. While we wait by a meat wagon, we eat delicious grilled <em>k\u00f6fte<\/em> (meatball) sandwiches on thick bread. The cook is a nice guy interested in who we are.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s dark. Finally, arranged transport to Patara for 25 TL. Not a long drive. We find the Akay Pansiyon and the young owner takes us in immediately \u2013 35 TL ($20) for room and breakfast. A hot shower has never felt so good. I drank a beer with Jauma and Gabi and went to sleep.<\/p>\n<p><strong>7<sup>th<\/sup> day. Patara \u2013 Letoon \u2013 Xanthos \u2013 Patara. 6 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>8:30 am: I\u2019m sitting in the dining area of Akay Pension. Today, I\u2019ll take a break from the heavy walking. I want to visit the nearby ruins of Letoon and Xanthos.<\/p>\n<p>Before leaving I went to a local barber for a shave. He gave me a good one, trimmed my nose hairs, massaged my head and arms, and perfumed them. I felt I was at a beauty parlor.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_313\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-313\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-313\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0229-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Ruins of Letoon\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0229-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0229-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0229-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-313\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruins of Letoon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Hitched a ride to K\u0131n\u0131k and caught a dolmu\u015f to the Letoon turnoff, from where I walked to the ruins. Walked around the Letoon site followed by a group of kids, who were hoping I would give them money.<\/p>\n<p>Letoon contains the remains of a Temple to Leto, a goddess loved and abandoned by Zeus. Wandering, she came to this spot where there was a natural spring. Some shepherds chased her away, and in revenge she changed them into frogs, perhaps the ancestors of the croakers I\u2019m hearing today.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_351\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-351\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-351\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0238-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Xanthos-Obelisk With Lycian Inscriptions\" width=\"660\" height=\"880\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0238-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0238-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0238.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-351\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Xanthos-Obelisk With Lycian Inscriptions<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Up a hillside from the town of K\u0131n\u0131k lies what remains of ancient Xanthos, once a Lycian capital. I studied a great stone obelisk covered with Lycian inscriptions. Although the language has a few characters familiar from the Greek alphabet, many others &#8212; in the shape of triangles and chevrons, for instance &#8212; are strange. Scholars believe Lycian was derived from the Hittite language.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_315\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-315\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-315\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0241-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Xanthos Theater\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0241-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0241-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0241-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0241.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-315\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Xanthos Theater<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Xanthos has a very long and remarkable history. The Lycians prized their independence above all else. Rather than surrender to the Persians in the 5<sup>th<\/sup> century BCE, they burned their women and children alive before fighting and dying to the last man. Centuries later, they repeated this scenario rather than surrender to Brutus and his Romans. The only invader they ever accepted was Alexander.<\/p>\n<p>This is my rest day. I\u2019ve walked only a few easy kilometers, but am still tired. Back at Akay Pansiyon, I\u2019ve washed my clothes in the bathroom sink.<\/p>\n<p><em>Note: I wasn\u2019t carrying much in the way of clothing: 3 T-shirts, 3 pair of boxer shorts, 2 pair of pants, and 3 pair of socks. I\u2019d had a 4<sup>th<\/sup> pair but somehow lost it early on.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong>8<sup>th<\/sup> day. \u00c7avd\u0131r to \u0130np\u0131nar Spring \u2013 \u00dcz\u00fcml\u00fc and Akbel. 17 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Day of pleasure and pain!<\/p>\n<p>This has probably been my most difficult day so far. During the entire day I\u2019ve met no other trekkers. Maybe they know something I didn\u2019t. Starting from \u00c7avd\u0131r the trail follows the course of an ancient Roman aqueduct, one that had once brought water to Xanthos.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_316\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-316\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-316\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0247-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Roman Aqueduct\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0247-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0247-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0247-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0247.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-316\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roman Aqueduct<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>At times I could see no trace of the ancient channel. Other times I was walking directly in it. There were points where it ran along a precipice with a sheer rock wall on the inside. These were scary moments. I also ran into many bushes that encroached on the trail.<\/p>\n<p>At a certain point, the channel became alive with water rushing through it. I crossed a stone bridge built by the Romans nearly 2,000 years ago to carry the aqueduct.\u00a0 It still functions intact. I can\u2019t imagine anything we build today lasting that long. The Romans built for the ages whereas we live in an age of impermanence.<\/p>\n<p>I finally got to the headwaters of the spring that fed the aqueduct. Water still gushing forth. Here I stopped to eat some cheese and crackers.<\/p>\n<p>So far, so good. Troubles began after the spring. At times I had difficulty finding the trail. In the clearings there weren\u2019t any waymarks. I used my compass to follow what directions there were in the guide.<\/p>\n<p>By climbing out of the valley that held one spring I finally came out on a tarmac road leading uphill to the village of \u00dcz\u00fcml\u00fc (Grapeville). Instead of climbing the long hill, I hitched a ride in a trailer pulled by a farm tractor. It was a rough ride and thankfully not too long.<\/p>\n<p>\u00dcz\u00fcml\u00fc was a busy place where I should have ended my trek for the day. There was a central square with a caf\u00e9 whose owner made me a delicious <em>tavuk<\/em> (chicken) pide, with salad and <em>ayran <\/em>(a drink of yogurt and water<em>)<\/em>. There was a fruit and vegetable seller nearby who dropped off two bananas on my table. Momentarily refreshed, I moved on after buying some nuts and a candy bar at the local market.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_317\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-317\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-317\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0253-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Kumar Playeres\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0253-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0253-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0253-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0253.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-317\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kumar Playeres<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The rest of the walk to the town of Akbel became frustrating and painful. First, I had to walk a kilometer up a steep village road, then up a stony path that brought me to a no-name village tea shop. The young owner brought me tea, and while drinking it I watched some local characters kibitzing around four men playing <em>kumar<\/em>, a game played with numbered tiles. These were real peasant types, rough and not modern looking at all. The scene made me think of something out of a 19<sup>th<\/sup>-century Russian novel.<\/p>\n<p>After this I was very tired but had no choice but to walk the last 3 K to Akbel. Again, it was a descent into a valley and a climb out. There was a river to cross. Guidebook said to wade across, and I tried, having tossed my shoes and socks to the opposite bank. I slipped while trying to toss my backpack and the pack got wet.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_352\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-352\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-352\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0155-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Lycian Waymark\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0155-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0155-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0155-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0155.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-352\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lycian Waymark<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>On the far shore I couldn\u2019t find the path uphill and was finally saved by an old shepherd who led me to one of the red-and-white paint slashes that mark the Way. Then I climbed and climbed up a hairpin goat trail.<\/p>\n<p>It was getting late in the day, and I needed to get out the valley before sunset. Finally, I could see the village of Akbel in the distance. Then, just as I was near, I lost the trail again. I shouted in frustration, which brought a young country girl to my rescue. She led me to a wide path that took me up to the tarmac road to the village. She also showed me how to ward off menacing dogs by throwing stones at them.<\/p>\n<p>At the edge of the village, which had no lodging, I waited by a fruit seller until a bus came to take me the short distance to the resort town of Kalkan with its hotels and restaurants.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_318\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-318\" style=\"width: 424px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\" wp-image-318\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0269-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Kalkan\" width=\"424\" height=\"565\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0269-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0269-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0269.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 424px) 100vw, 424px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-318\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kalkan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>A taxi driver took me from the bus station to the \u00c7elik Pension. I was given a room at the top, one facing the town\u2019s beautiful bay. I showered and slept almost immediately without any dinner. My feet ached all night. I took aspirin for the pain. Must have stayed in bed at least 10 hours.<\/p>\n<p><em>(I\u2019ll skip details about Kalkan except to say that I rested there and met a wonderful restaurateur named Ali Ozt<\/em><em>\u00fcrk, who operates a tasty, seaside bistrot he calls Kaptan. Musically speaking, we are kindred souls. We both love jazz, blues and the songs of J.J. Cale. While I enjoyed some excellent sea bass, Ali put together a blues mix and presented it to me on CD. I hope to revisit Kaptan one day in Kay\u2019s company. She would enjoy meeting him.)<\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong>10<sup>th<\/sup> day. Kalkan \u2013 Bezirgan. 12 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Bezirgan is a hugely spread-out village on a large plain ringed with mountains. To get here I climbed for several hours, first steeply over a ridge, then in switchbacks up the side of a larger mountain.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_320\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-320\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-320\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0281-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Dutch Trekkers\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0281-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0281-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0281-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0281.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-320\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dutch Trekkers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>On the way up I met two Dutch men, strong and experienced trekkers, with whom I had some conversation. They had trekked for 3 months last year through Europe. The younger one was carrying a digital Canon SLR around his waist with extra lenses.<\/p>\n<p>At Bezirgan the single pension was full. None of the locals whom I met offered me shelter. At the local teahouse, Dervish, the owner, was more helpful. It had begun to rain steadily, and he offered to let me set up my tarp on the next-door balcony of an old house.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_321\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-321\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-321\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0283-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"My Bezirgan Camp\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0283-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0283-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0283-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0283.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-321\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">My Bezirgan Camp<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The house, like most of the buildings in Bezirgan, is a <em>yazl\u0131k <\/em>(summer house). These are all empty at the moment since the owners don\u2019t come up to escape the heat below till May and June.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s cold and wet here. If it weren\u2019t for the kindness of Dervish, who has helped me set up my tarp and cooked my <em>yufka<\/em> cheese sandwich, I would feel bad about the lack of this town&#8217;s hospitality.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-353\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/Rainbow-1024x731.jpg\" alt=\"On the Bezirgan Plain\" width=\"660\" height=\"471\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/Rainbow-1024x731.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/Rainbow-300x214.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/Rainbow-768x548.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>6:40 pm: I\u2019ve taken a walk around the plain to find my outlet for the morning. It\u2019s quite a distance. There was sun briefly and a gorgeous rainbow. Moments later a strong wind blew in so much fog that I couldn\u2019t see the mountains I\u2019d admired five minutes before.<\/p>\n<p><strong>11<sup>th<\/sup> day. Bezirgan \u2013 Sar\u0131belen \u2013 Route to G\u00f6k\u00e7e\u00f6ren. 10 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>It was a long night; slept fitfully \u2013 11 hours in the same position on hard wood. At one point I looked up at the sky and saw stars, so I knew it was clearing. My breakfast: instant soup, yufka, ka\u015far cheese and tea. I found a modern toilet near the tea shop, washed, cleaned my teeth, packed. Though I had to camp, at least there was running water and a toilet. Also, on the porch I didn\u2019t get wet.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_354\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-354\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-354\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0290-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Sculpted Rocks\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0290-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0290-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0290-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0290.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-354\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sculpted Rocks<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>2:45 pm: I\u2019m sitting in a beautiful spot, above Sar\u0131belen on the way to G\u00f6k\u00e7e\u00f6ren. Around me are interesting rock formations. There are old pine trees and a rocky clearing. I\u2019ve made a fire and cooked <em>socuk<\/em> on a stick. Writing this while the coals burn out. Sunny with a breeze. I\u2019m sleepy, tired from too much climbing.<\/p>\n<p>6 pm: I\u2019m camped in an isolated spot, a clearing between Sar\u0131belen and G\u00f6k\u00e7e\u00f6ren, my destination for tomorrow. I\u2019ve rigged my sleeping tarp differently with one end on the ground and the other whose opening is quite low. There will be just room enough for me, but I\u2019m hoping that it will be more wind-proof and warmer. I\u2019ve built a fire ring and collected wood. I won\u2019t eat much, maybe just my can of tuna. There is no water source here, so I must conserve what I have.<\/p>\n<p><strong>12<sup>th<\/sup> day. Campsite above Sar\u0131belen to G\u00f6k\u00e7e\u00f6ren. 12 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-355\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0294-1024x703.jpg\" alt=\"DSCN0294\" width=\"660\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0294-1024x703.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0294-300x206.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0294-768x527.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0294.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>9:20 am: Sitting on a rock very high up on the opposite side of the valley where I was yesterday. I\u2019m looking down at the deserted coasts of the Med and some of the islands. This is a very lonely spot. The sun is shining, and a heavy mist covers the sea so that visibility is limited. There are no ships to be seen.<\/p>\n<p>I passed a rough night. My experimental tarp rig was a bust. It sagged and lots of condensation accumulated. My sleeping bag got wet.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_323\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-323\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-323\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0298-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"H\u00fcseyin's Wife Making Brooms\" width=\"660\" height=\"880\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0298-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0298-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0298.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-323\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huseyin&#8217;s Wife Making Brooms<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>As I was wending my way toward G\u00f6k\u00e7e\u00f6ren, I met H\u00fcseyin Yilmaz and his wife coming as though on a picnic. I had seen H\u00fcseyin\u2019s crudely lettered signs along the trail, advertising food and lodging. I told him I was coming to stay with him and continued walking. Just as I was approaching the village, he met me again and led me to his home where I was surprised by the rudimentary way he lived. The promised hot shower turned out to be a bucket bath in the bathroom Yilmaz shared with his wife. I washed my cooking things at an outside tap. Yilmaz and his wife live with a set of grandparents.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_324\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-324\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-324\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0304-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"80 Years of a Hard Life\" width=\"660\" height=\"880\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0304-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0304-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0304.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-324\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">80 Years of a Hard Life<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>She\u2019s 80 and looks 100 and he\u2019s 87 and still going strong to judge by the way he swings an axe. These old people don\u2019t have more than three teeth left between them.<\/p>\n<p>One of the first questions I always get from Turks, \u201cHow many children do you have?\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>13<sup>th<\/sup> day.\u00a0 G\u00f6k\u00e7e\u00f6ren to a campsite below Phellos.\u00a0 15 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>10:30 am: I\u2019m glad to have left H\u00fcseyin\u2019s place behind. It\u2019s so poor, yet H. has the mentality of a businessman in it for the money. He brought me into his salon for dinner and tried to sell me cheap jewelry and hand-made scarves. I bought a plastic necklace to appease him.<\/p>\n<p>We ate from a tray set on a cloth on the floor. No sign of a table. H made rice and beans and served them with <em>yufka<\/em> (unleavened bread), honey and salad. I ate my fill.<\/p>\n<p>H\u00fcseyin gave me a ride on his motorcycle (an old Jawa \u2013 Czech machine) to where my trail resumed a couple of kilometers outside the village. My first hour of walking wasn\u2019t bad, and then I had a very long, steep climb out of the valley.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_356\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-356\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-356\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0312-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Phellos-House Tombs \" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0312-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0312-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0312-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0312.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-356\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phellos-House Tombs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I thought I could camp at the ruins of Lycian Phellos, but there was nowhere to do it. The whole site at the top of a high ridge is terribly overgrown. Most of what is there by way of ruins are tombs. The west end had two beauties \u2013 rock-cut, house tombs that must have belonged to rich and important people.\u00a0 It was late, and I was tired. I thought about sleeping in one of the tombs, but I wouldn\u2019t have been able to stretch out. Besides, the thought gave me the creeps.<\/p>\n<p>Earlier in the day, at a point near a gushing spring I came upon a group of 18 British day hikers and their guide. We talked a bit.<\/p>\n<p>At another moment, I met a shepherd out hunting with his gun and dog.<\/p>\n<p>The final stretch of the walk up to the ruins was terribly overgrown. I was glad to put on my fleece to protect my arms.<\/p>\n<p>Since there were no camping options by the ruins, and it was getting late, I moved quickly down the hill in the direction of the town of Ka\u015f hoping to find a suitable camping spot lower down. I came to a field with trees between which I could hang my tarp. Problem was the ground was covered with stones. I cleared most of them and hung my tarp between the trees. It was getting dark by the time I was settled. I ate a tomato and some cheese and <em>yufka<\/em>. Didn\u2019t even bother to make a fire. Too tired. Crawled into my bag and began what became a pretty uncomfortable night.<\/p>\n<p>I don\u2019t know the best way to rig that tarp. It really isn\u2019t very effective. Tonight, the breeze ruffled it making noise. Here, the ground was slanted slightly causing me to slip downwards. I really hated it. If there\u2019s one lesson I\u2019ve learned from this trip, it\u2019s never to go camping without a proper tent.<\/p>\n<p><strong>14<sup>th<\/sup> day. Campsite to Ka\u015f. 11kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This was a fun and easy day until the final hour when I had to descend a steep trail from a very high cliff, 600 meters perhaps. During the descent I slipped and fell twice, the first I\u2019ve fallen in two weeks.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_357\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-357\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-357\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0321-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"The Trek Down to Ka\u015f\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0321-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0321-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0321-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0321.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-357\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Trek Down to Ka\u015f<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Beforehand, I walked for several kilometers along a village road and then on a trail through open fields.<\/p>\n<p>3 pm: Ka\u015f \u2013 I\u2019m dozing off on the sunny roof terrace where I sit. I\u2019ve checked in to the Yusuf Pension, showered, changed, taken my dirties to the laundry, eaten a k\u00f6fte sandwich, replaced my watch band, picked up a set of hiking poles shipped from Istanbul, and gotten a shave and head massage.<\/p>\n<p>Ka\u015f is a lovely tourist town in a splendid setting that I had admired from on high. There\u2019s a bay, a small harbor, and a peninsula that stretches out several kilometers. There are islands, too.<\/p>\n<p>The town is compact and everyone seems to know where everything is. There are restaurants and pansyions but not as costly as in Kalkan. Today, April 15, is the official opening of the tourist season. A group of four men \u2013 two drummers and two horn players \u2013 have been parading around the town center making a din.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_327\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-327\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-327\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0323-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Announcing Tourism Week\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0323-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0323-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0323-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0323.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-327\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Announcing Tourism Week<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I\u2019m planning on tomorrow being a rest day. I really need it.<\/p>\n<p>A while ago I spoke to Kay as I\u2019ve done every day that I\u2019ve had a signal. I really look forward to these calls.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_328\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-328\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-328\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0336-1024x725.jpg\" alt=\"Annual Tourist Week\" width=\"660\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0336-1024x725.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0336-300x212.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0336-768x544.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0336.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-328\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Annual Tourist Week<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>6:45 pm: Today is the kick-off ceremony for Ka\u015f\u2019s annual tourist week celebration. It\u2019s a big deal with many in the town participating. Marching bands, folk dancing in native costumes, speeches by various dignitaries, awards and a baked goods sale.<\/p>\n<p>All of us stood while we honored the memory of Atat\u00fcrk and the authorities played a recording of the Ist\u0131klal March. Tourism is the reason for this town\u2019s existence and everyone seems to respect that fact.<\/p>\n<p>Generally, the town couldn\u2019t look better. Everything is clean and freshly painted. There is no trash and nothing seems neglected or out of order. It\u2019s a very pleasant place.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve just ordered a Margarita pizza and a beer and will go to bed early.<\/p>\n<p>I have to say something about Yusuf and his pansiyon. He\u2019s great. I asked for a towel; he brought it immediately. I asked for clothespins; he brought a handful. I asked if there were anywhere in town that sold canisters for my butane stove; he put me on the back of his scooter and drove me to the place, fast, no sweat. He\u2019s a dream. I\u2019ll recommend his place to anyone going to Ka\u015f.<\/p>\n<p><strong>15<sup>th<\/sup> day. Ka\u015f \u2013 Meis \u2013 Ka\u015f. Casual walking. <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This is a rest day. I\u2019m taking a boat excursion to the Greek Island of Meis for a few hours.<\/p>\n<p>It was wonderful to sleep in a comfortable bed. Still, I was stiff this morning. I went out shortly after 7 a.m. to hunt for breakfast. Too early! I drank tea at one place until another that served breakfast opened.<\/p>\n<p>9:35 am: I\u2019m sitting in the morning sun near the Altu\u011f I, the boat that will take me to Meis. Having eaten and walked a bit, I feel good; however from climbing the stairs at the pension, I feel that my legs are still weak. It\u2019s another sunny, beautiful, blue-sky day.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve been charged by Kay to find some gifts for our friends and relations and send them to Istanbul. She\u2019s right that they may be cheaper here than in Istanbul.<\/p>\n<p>6:20 pm: Sitting at a caf\u00e9 table enjoying a beer. I\u2019ve bought jewelry for our nieces and Lauren and sent it to Kay in Istanbul via Aras cargo. The pieces are nice \u2013 two coral necklaces and three sets of earrings with pendants \u2013 silver, coral and turquoise.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_330\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-330\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-330\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0353-1024x663.jpg\" alt=\"Greece: Island of Castellorizo\/Meis\" width=\"660\" height=\"427\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0353-1024x663.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0353-300x194.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0353-768x497.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0353.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-330\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Greece: Island of Castellorizo\/Meis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>It\u2019s been a nice day. I\u2019ve taken my boat trip to the Greek Island of Meis, only 20 minutes from Ka\u015f. A nice harbor and beautiful, colorfully painted houses. Very relaxing. I found my lunch of tiny red shrimps \u2013 a local delicacy, I\u2019m told \u2013 and some kind of clam-like shellfish with bread and a small pitcher of white wine to be quite expensive: 24 Euros. I think the Euro has caused everything to become more costly here, as it has everywhere else in the Euro zone.<\/p>\n<p>The best part of the day was meeting an interesting Swedish couple from G\u00f6ttenberg. They have been sailing their boat, The Windjammer, for months among the Greek Islands and along the Turkish coast. We really hit it off and have traded contact information. It would really be nice to exchange homes with them for a while. Their names are Michael and Carin Schweizer.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve bought some food items and a small bottle of JB Scotch for my ongoing trekking. This has been a good rest day and tomorrow I\u2019ll do a short walk to Liman A\u011f\u0131z\u0131 and back.<\/p>\n<p><strong>16<sup>th<\/sup> day. Ka\u015f \u2013 Liman A\u011f\u0131z\u0131 \u2013 Ka\u015f. 8 K. <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>My plan today is to walk a short distance to Liman A\u011f\u0131z\u0131 (Harbor Mouth) and back to Ka\u015f. From the seaside at Ka\u015f I can see my destination across the bay.<\/p>\n<p>8:25 am: I\u2019m waiting for breakfast. I\u2019ve already gone out and inspected two Lycian Rock-cut tombs in the hillside back of town. They must be 2500 years old. One still has most of its ornamented facade. Square with setbacks and on the top corners oblong protrusions. Very elegant! And the polished stone still looks good.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_358\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-358\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-358\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0360-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Kat\u0131rt\u0131rna\u011f(Mule's Toenail) Spanish Broom\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0360-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0360-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0360-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0360.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-358\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kat\u0131rt\u0131rna\u011f(Mule&#8217;s Toenail) Spanish Broom<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>11:15: I\u2019ve made it to Liman A\u011f\u0131z\u0131 in record time \u2013 about 1.5 hours. Of the two approaches to this isolated beach, the guide warned against the first, a very steep descent on a cliff face with a stretch along a very narrow ledge. It wasn\u2019t to be tackled alone, in wet weather, or with a heavy pack. I hadn\u2019t planned on approaching this way but somehow found myself doing it. Fortunately, on the very dangerous section, someone had anchored a safety line to the cliff face. This made a huge difference.<\/p>\n<p>Workers are finishing construction of a wooden jetty. It looks very well built. Otherwise, there is a shaded restaurant terrace, beach umbrellas and chaise longues just waiting for crowds to show up.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve just noticed a couple arriving by private boat. The regular service from Ka\u015f hasn\u2019t begun yet.<\/p>\n<p>It was an interesting walk over, the first time I\u2019ve used the hiking poles that Kay sent down to me. They really helped on the steep descent, taking pressure off my knees. I have no particular problem with my knees, but they are aging.<\/p>\n<p>Suddenly a moment of drama. A little boy, son of people who maintain this place, just fell into the sea a few meters from where I\u2019m sitting. I heard his mother rushing past me; looked up to see her jump into the water and rescue the boy. He seemed to be floating on his back. He came out smiling.<\/p>\n<p>Bought a copy of the IHT today and read about the volcanic eruptions in Iceland that has caused airports all over Britain and northern Europe to close.<\/p>\n<p><strong>17<sup>th<\/sup> day. Ka\u015f \u2013 Purple House. 8 kilometers <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Leaving Ka\u015f \u2013 this comfortable town, for what, I don\u2019t know. I\u2019m back at the Tad\u0131m restaurant, waiting for someone to get together some breakfast. It\u2019s 7:30 am, very early to eat in this town.<\/p>\n<p>My plan is to skip a section whose difficulty doesn\u2019t seem to be justified by the views it provides. I\u2019ll take a taxi to the village of Boa\u011f\u0131zc\u0131k and walk from there. There are ruins to be seen on the following long but not-too-difficult trail. My destination is the town of \u00dc\u00e7a\u011f\u0131z (Three Mouths) where I expect to find a pansiyon.<\/p>\n<p>Well, the day didn\u2019t turn out as planned. The taxi to Boa\u011f\u0131zc\u0131k was fine and I began walking immediately. It wasn\u2019t long, however, before the trail got confusing around Kale Tepesi, the site of the ancient city of Apollonia. I lost time trying to figure out which way to go. Along came two Australian brothers, Hugh and Guy, and together we made some progress. I skipped the visit up to the Acropolis to see the ruins because I knew I had a long way to go to reach \u00dc\u00e7a\u011f\u0131z. My right foot was tender as though I had bruised it and was slowing me down.<\/p>\n<p>The Australians passed me, and I walked along through scrub downhill on a stony path for a long way. It would take me all the way to sea level.<\/p>\n<p>Along the way I passed a giant herd of goats, more than I had seen during my whole trip so far. At one point, while I rested by a cistern, six young goats milled around, watching me with curiosity. Surprisingly, there was no sign of adult goat supervision.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_331\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-331\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-331\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0366-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Aperlae Ruins\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0366-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0366-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0366-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0366.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-331\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aperlae Ruins<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>About 1 p.m. I took a longer break and called Kay. Just after I began walking again, I came upon the ruins of Aperlae, spreading down a hillside from a hilltop Acropolis to the sea. First, I passed a large, ancient cistern half-filled with stagnant water. It had once been vaulted and covered, but its roof had long since collapsed. Next, I saw parts of the town\u2019s walls, then various tombs of the \u201csaddle-backed\u201d sarcophagus type. As I descended I saw stairs cut into the rock leading to the city walls. Aperlae may have been a garrison town or naval base. There are remains of a sunken jetty at the seaside.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_333\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-333\" style=\"width: 466px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\" wp-image-333\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0369-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Purple House Pansiyon\" width=\"466\" height=\"621\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0369-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0369-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0369.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-333\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Purple House Pansiyon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>It is by the seaside, also, that I\u2019ve found a complex called the \u201cPurple House.\u201d It\u2019s a campsite and pansiyon run by a young man named R\u0131za. There is a 200-year-old house that R\u0131za said was built by his great-grandfather. His grandfather lived in it for 65 years. R\u0131za and I talked and I\u2019ve decided to stay the night here in his <em>bungalov<\/em>, a surprising creation with a porch, a double bed and an ensuite bathroom, with shower stall and modern toilet. It\u2019s all very elegant and comfortable. I don\u2019t mind paying the 50 TL R\u0131za is asking for it.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_332\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-332\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-332\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0368-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"R\u0131za's Great-Grandfather's House\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0368-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0368-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0368-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0368.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-332\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">R\u0131za&#8217;s Great-Grandfather&#8217;s House<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>4:30 p.m.: What I\u2019ve done since my arrival is drink a beer and go for a swim along the seaside in front of the ancient ruins. R\u0131za has placed some <em>chaise longues<\/em> on the shore and I\u2019ve lain in the sun awhile. Just in front of me a half sunken saddle-backed sarcophagus.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve showered and now I\u2019m sitting on the porch of my <em>bungalov<\/em> writing these notes. I\u2019ve tried to light my little gas stove, which has malfunctioned and burned itself up internally. I\u2019m not too sad because the upside is I won\u2019t have to carry its weight anymore, nor the gas canisters I bought in Ka\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>I think I\u2019ll pour myself a scotch from the half-pint bottle I bought and read a bit.<\/p>\n<p>6:20 pm: I\u2019m sitting with R\u0131za\u2019s father, a retired government clerk. We\u2019re surrounded by chickens that want the <em>kabak <\/em><em>\u00e7ekirde\u011fi<\/em> (dried zucchini seeds) we\u2019re eating.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s so interesting poking around the grounds looking at the various outbuildings. R\u0131za says he loves winter here. Has no need of company. He is married, however, and his wife has recently given birth. She and the newborn are staying in Demre, a town not far away, where they have a house. At the moment, R\u0131za\u2019s mother and father are staying here with him..<\/p>\n<p>About 7 pm: New arrivals. First, Gavin, a young economist from Northern Ireland, who works in London.<\/p>\n<p>Next came three Turks. \u00c7idem is the woman\u2019s name. She works with children in an Istanbul hospital as a psychologist.<\/p>\n<p>We all ate dinner together: grilled <em>\u00e7upra <\/em>(sea bream<em>)<\/em>, bulgur, salad, bread and beer. Afterward we sat around a lovely campfire on beanbag chairs. I crawled into my sleeping bag about 10 p.m. and slept very well. My accommodations cost a bit more but are worth every <em>kuru\u015f<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>18<sup>th<\/sup> day. Purple House \u2013 \u00dc\u00e7a\u011f\u0131z. 8 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>It was a strenuous four-and-a-half-hour walk that brought me to the tourist town of \u00dc\u00e7a\u011f\u0131z. The town, on an inlet, is built next to the ruins of another ancient Lycian city, Teimiussa. Across the water on the peninsula is an old fortress and under the water by its shore are the sunken ruins of Simena, another antique town. In the Lycian heyday, during the 4<sup>th<\/sup> and 5<sup>th<\/sup> centuries BCE, this region must have hummed with life. Today, the most prominent ruins are the tombs: freestanding, saddle-backed and house tombs cut into the rock face. Burial customs must have counted for a lot in that society.<\/p>\n<p>I am surprised by how tired I feel from the morning walk. I was on the trail by 8:30 a.m. and didn\u2019t arrive here until 1 p.m. The last leg, climbing over and around the rocks by the shore, was the most difficult for me.<\/p>\n<p>I needed to do my laundry, however, the Kekova Pansiyon where I\u2019m staying doesn\u2019t have enough water to run its washing machine. The help gave me a couple of plastic basins and some detergent with which I washed my things in the bathroom. I couldn\u2019t believe how dirty the water got. I also don\u2019t think I got all the soap out with my inadequate rinsing methods.<\/p>\n<p>In spite of its water shortage, the Kekova is a really nice place. My room is large and so is the bathroom, much larger than in most of the hotels Kay and I stay in.<\/p>\n<p>I hadn\u2019t planned on a mid-day meal, but hunger overtook me, and a short walk away I found a buffet restaurant and the two Australian brothers. Like most trekkers here, they\u2019re skipping around and not walking the whole trail.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_334\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-334\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-334\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0380-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Ruins of Teimiussa \" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0380-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0380-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0380-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0380.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-334\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruins of Teimiussa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>After my food and two orange Fantas, I explored the Teimiussa ruins at the east end of town. I\u2019ll be walking that way tomorrow when I head for \u00c7aya\u011f\u0131z (Mouth of the Spring).<\/p>\n<p>Spoke with Kay but was too tired to remember all I wanted to say.<\/p>\n<p>4:45 pm: The woman manager just brought me a nice cup of tea. The weather, so sunny and hot earlier, has turned cloudy and cool. I hope it doesn\u2019t rain. My laundry is hanging on the line.<\/p>\n<p>I had a further thought about yesterday\u2019s Purple House. It seems remarkable to me that R\u0131za can run his operation without a running spring or a renewable source of water. Same for his lack of electricity. His solar panels and batteries are enough to run his refrigerator and the tiny lights that illuminated my bungalow after dark.<\/p>\n<p><strong>19<sup>th<\/sup> day. \u00dc\u00e7a\u011f\u0131z \u2013 8:25 a.m. \u2013 \u00c7aya\u011f\u0131z. 15 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Finishing breakfast on the wide porch of the Kekova Pansiyon. In front of me lies the small bay with its jetty lined with excursion boats waiting for customers who may be delayed now because of the erupting volcano in Iceland that has shut so many northern European airports.<\/p>\n<p>Just in front of where I sit, one the other side of the porch railing, are a lemon and an apricot tree, so near by that the women can reach out and pick the fruit without leaving the balcony.<\/p>\n<p>The water is dead calm and the grey clouds that have gathered reflect bright silver near the shore. It\u2019s very peaceful hereabouts. The loudest sounds are the roosters crowing.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019m ready to walk. Rain is threatening. I hope it holds off.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_335\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-335\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-335\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0382-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"On the Trail to Cayag\u0131z \" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0382-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0382-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0382-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0382.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-335\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">On the Trail to Cayag\u0131z<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>10:45 am: I\u2019ve been walking for a couple of hours on the way toward \u00c7aya\u011f\u0131z. I\u2019ve reached an inlet where there is a kind of caf\u00e9 and maybe a pansiyon. No sign of human life. There is a large dog tied to post and lying on the caf\u00e9 floor. He glanced at me and didn\u2019t get up, a welcome change from the farm dogs earlier that wouldn\u2019t stop barking at me as I crossed a long valley. I\u2019m rested a bit and will resume my day\u2019s trek.<\/p>\n<p>1:20 pm: Stopped beneath the village of Kapakl\u0131. Have eaten a lunch of two pieces of bread saved from breakfast with cheddar cheese and salami. Finished with several sandwich cookies.<\/p>\n<p>The call to prayer has just sounded echoing through the valley. I\u2019m not terribly far from the beach of Andriake, the ancient harbor of Myra; I hope I\u2019ll have enough water to last. I\u2019ll call Kay when I arrive.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_337\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-337\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-337\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0386-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Bridge Leading to \u00c7aya\u011f\u0131z \" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0386-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0386-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0386-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0386.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-337\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bridge Leading to \u00c7aya\u011f\u0131z<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>7:50 pm: I made it to \u00c7aya\u011f\u0131z thirsty with no water left. I walked into a large restaurant and immediately asked for water. I drank a small bottle quickly, then a second more slowly.<\/p>\n<p>\u00c7aya\u011f\u0131z is not inspiring. There is no lodging. Walking out and crossing a stream I met Sardar, who runs a beach bar and caf\u00e9. While I drank an Efes, he called people he knew to find me a bed for the night.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve ended up the Hotel Murat on a highway somewhere. A young man named Tolga came and brought me here on the back of his motorbike. He\u2019s a nice kid and a careful driver.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve called Kay twice to relate my adventures.<\/p>\n<p>The shabby Hotel Murat, on a busy highway, is a strange place. There are various men hanging around the lobby. The atmosphere is gloomy. My room has a bed and hot water in the bathroom. I\u2019ve showered and sit on my balcony sipping Red Label Whiskey.<\/p>\n<p>On the highway, there are lots of tractors pulling trailers loaded with tomato cases.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_338\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-338\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-338\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0387-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"View from the Hotel Murat\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0387-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0387-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0387-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0387.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-338\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">View from the Hotel Murat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Across the highway are a couple of ugly concrete apartment buildings. One has the concrete pillars sticking up for an additional unfinished floor. Walkers along the highway are exclusively women and young girls. It\u2019s a dismal scene, yet I like it. It makes me think of my hitchhiking youth \u2013 all alone on some no-name highway somewhere.<\/p>\n<p>8:05 pm: I sit in the lobby of this depressing hotel waiting for a meal I ordered. I don\u2019t know where it will come from. The kitchen in this place doesn\u2019t seem to be operational. There is no sign of a woman around. If Murat is married, his wife lives elsewhere. What a strange place!<\/p>\n<p>Today was brutal, especially the final hour. I\u2019m very tired. Maybe I should give up this trek. The rocks and the scrub are getting too familiar.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_336\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-336\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-336\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0385-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Michael &amp; Carin Schweizer on the Windjammer\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0385-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0385-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0385-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0385.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-336\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael &amp; Carin Schweizer on the Windjammer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>An interesting note: At an inlet I passed today I ran into the Swedish couple, Michael and Carin. Their boat was moored there. They invited me aboard, but I passed, saying that I had too far to walk today. How true!\u00a0 This walk from \u00dc\u00e7a\u011f\u0131z was supposed to take a bit more than six hours. It took me about 7.5, and left me exhausted.<\/p>\n<p>Now, the question is, \u201cWhere will I go tomorrow?\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>20<sup>th<\/sup> day. Hotel Murat \u2013 Myra\/Demre \u2013 Olympos. 5 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>7:40 am: I\u2019m packed and ready to leave after breakfast. I\u2019ve decided to go to Myra and find a nice pansiyon. There are famous ruins and tombs to explore there. It was one of the key cities in the Lycian League.<\/p>\n<p>Dinner last night was unusual. The Hotel Murat has no kitchen or at least no cook. When I asked about food, a man listed several choices, and I went for the <em>Sa\u00e7 Kavurma<\/em>. I sat at a table writing in this journal when, after a while, someone came and covered the tablecloth with old newspapers. Moments later a delivery man appeared and set my dinner in front of me, a shallow steel dish with the meat and several pieces of pide bread. It was surprisingly tasty \u2013 meat bits cooked with onions and tomatoes. A plastic container held a not-very-fresh salad. My drink was a container of <em>ayran<\/em>. I guess I assumed that the cost of the meal would be added to my bill, but suddenly the delivery guy was at my side asking for 10 TL.<\/p>\n<p>A peculiarity of my room is that the door to the corridor is not solid. It has a pebbled glass panel so that every time the automatic corridor light goes on, light comes into my room. This is a first!<\/p>\n<p>10 am: Young Tolga drove me to Myra on his motorbike. The ancient theater here is large and complete except for the stage wall. The site at the foot of a 100-meter cliff is well organized. I paid 10 TL to enter the open-air museum.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_340\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-340\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-340\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0390-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Myra\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0390-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0390-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0390-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0390.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-340\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Myra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_339\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-339\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-339\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0389-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Myra\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0389-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0389-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0389-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0389.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-339\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Myra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>There are many stones carved with faces. Ganymede and Medusa. Above and around the theatre there are more rock-cut tombs than I\u2019ve ever seen. It\u2019s very impressive. Below on the approach road is the usual group of stands selling tourist items. There is a very nice toilet, clean and well stocked. I\u2019m pleased to have seen this place. Now, I\u2019ll walk back toward Demre center and look for the famous St. Nicholas Church.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_342\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-342\" style=\"width: 469px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\" wp-image-342\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0421-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"St Nicholas Church\" width=\"469\" height=\"625\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0421-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0421-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0421.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 469px) 100vw, 469px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-342\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">St Nicholas Church<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>7:30 pm: I was lucky at Myra. I arrived early enough to have the ruins to myself except for one German couple. At St. Nicholas Church, also now a museum, I wasn\u2019t so lucky. The place was swarming with Russian tour groups. Apparently, St. Nicholas is greatly revered in Russia.<\/p>\n<p>Nicholas, aka Santa Claus, was a 4<sup>th<\/sup>-century bishop of Myra who had a reputation for kindness. Popular, especially with the northern Europeans, his legend grew into the jolly, gift-giving figure we know as Father Christmas. The irony is that the real Nicholas never saw snow, nor could he have imagined reindeer.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_341\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-341\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-341\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0412-1024x687.jpg\" alt=\"Me after Visiting Myra\" width=\"660\" height=\"443\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0412-1024x687.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0412-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0412-768x515.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0412.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-341\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Me after Visiting Myra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Sitting in a caf\u00e9 after my church visit, I decided to leave the area quickly. Demre isn\u2019t an attractive place to stay and reading about the next walking routes left me dissatisfied.<\/p>\n<p>I was lucky to catch an eastbound bus leaving at noon. It took me to a stop on the highway 7 kilometers above the site of Olympos from where I caught a dolmu\u015f to complete the trip.<\/p>\n<p>Along the creek at Olympos I checked into the Sheriff Pansiyon, one of many. I have a tiny cabin with bed and bathroom.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_343\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-343\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-343\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0427-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Olympos Ruins\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0427-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0427-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0427-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0427.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-343\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Olympos Ruins<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I\u2019ve spent the afternoon walking and exploring what remains of ancient Olympos, once one of the leading Lycian cities.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_344\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-344\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-344\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0429-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Roman Temple Wall at Olympos\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0429-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0429-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0429-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0429.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-344\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roman Temple Wall at Olympos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The ruins are spread out and overgrown. For instance, there is a wall of a Roman temple that includes an ornamented doorway. It is set amidst thick growth and recalls romantic images from old movies where explorers dressed in khaki discover lost cities in far-off jungles. There are the remains of churches, tombs and even a building ornamented with mosaics, all hidden in a forest of green overgrowth.<\/p>\n<p><strong>21st day. Olympos &#8211; \u00c7\u0131ral\u0131 \u2013 Chrome Beach. 23 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This morning I walked a long way along a beach and beachfront to \u00c7\u0131ral\u0131, the start of the Lycian Way segment leading to the tourist town Tekirova. I thought it would be a village with a shop. Wrong! It\u2019s just a small collection of houses. I had to walk another kilometer to find a little market at an <em>otopark<\/em> and some breakfast. This otopark is the place from where hikers go up to the Chimera, the eternal flame. I thought of the day that Kay and I made the climb several years ago.<\/p>\n<p>\u00c7\u0131ral\u0131 was supposed to be only 3 K from Olympos valley, but it was the longest 3 K I\u2019ve ever walked. Now, I have to walk back to the trailhead. I\u2019ll buy some supplies here, especially water. There seems to be no water source between here and Tekirova.<\/p>\n<p>Noon: I\u2019ve made a good start on the path to Tekirova. A man and a woman from Istanbul gave me a ride from the otopark back to the trailhead. He\u2019s a retired general manager of Ar\u00e7elik, the large Turkish appliance company. The trail began climbing immediately. Soon I had a lovely view back at Olympos beach and the plain behind.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_345\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-345\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-345\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0445-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Olympos Beach\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0445-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0445-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0445-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0445.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-345\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Olympos Beach<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Now, I\u2019m sitting on another high point. The terrain is very different from where I last walked. The rock, a dark red instead of grey, looks like granite. It\u2019s not as sharply contoured. There are pine trees again, and the air smells sweet. A breeze is wafting off the sea. Here the water is deep blue except close to the rocky shore where it is turquoise. It\u2019s a lovely day. I\u2019m carrying extra water since I won\u2019t find any on the route. Don\u2019t know where I\u2019ll camp tonight.<\/p>\n<p>2:50 pm: I\u2019m sitting with Mustafa, a fish farm manager, outside his shack on Maden Beach. He\u2019s not married and feels very lonely in this isolated place. To pass the time he\u2019s teaching himself English. He\u2019s memorized 600 words and says when he knows 1,000, he\u2019ll be able to speak our language. He doesn\u2019t have a very clear idea of how the words go together; nevertheless, he\u2019s doing well, especially for a man who has had only five years of formal schooling. It\u2019s very restful here, but I must push on.<\/p>\n<p>After Maden Beach I walked a long way further, up and over a high ridge on an old mine road, seriously washed out in places. This kind of walking should continue until I get to the outskirts of Tekirova tomorrow morning.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_346\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-346\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-346\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0449-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Chrome Beach\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0449-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0449-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0449-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0449.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-346\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chrome Beach<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Along this road there was nowhere to camp until I reached Chrome Beach after 6 p.m. I was pretty tired by that time. I didn\u2019t bother trying to rig my tarp, just laid it down as a ground cloth and slept under the stars. I didn\u2019t sleep well, however, even though I had the entire beach to myself or so I thought.<\/p>\n<p>For dinner I made a small cooking fire, sliced an onion, fried it in butter and added bulgur and water and let it cook. Not a gourmet meal but satisfying. I had bread and for dessert, a snack cake I had bought this morning. By 8 p.m. I was in my bag and listening to the frogs and birds, and looking up at the darkening sky. All night long I had the sound of waves lapping the shore in my ears.<\/p>\n<p>About midnight I heard voices. Two people were walking on the beach out of my sight. I had no idea where they came from since I thought the only approach was by walking a trail that no one would use after dark. It wasn\u2019t until morning that I learned there is also an old mining road giving access to the beach. Why anyone would come to walk on that beach at that late hour remains a mystery, especially since the road, by which I left the beach, was long and badly degenerated.<\/p>\n<p><strong>22<sup>nd<\/sup> day. Chrome Beach \u2013 Tekirova. 7 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>On the beach the sun comes up fast, and it was good to feel its warmth. It was a long night, and I think I was awake for much of it. The way to camp in these parts at this time of year is with a tent. If I were traveling with another person, carrying a tent would be possible.<\/p>\n<p>My walk to the outskirts of Tekirova lasted 1.5 hours, but there was more climbing on a forest road with its sharp, pointed stones.<\/p>\n<p>I finally hit the main highway into town and have stopped in a garden restaurant to eat the most elaborate breakfast I\u2019ve had all month.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s a lovely day &#8212; Children\u2019s Day &#8212; a national holiday in Turkey. A girls\u2019 marching band, complete with a color guard and a drum major, marches by, followed by the rest of the school with little children in various costumes.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ll be moving on momentarily. Can\u2019t wait to find a pansiyon with a shower.<\/p>\n<p>As I walked along the main drag, I passed many different kinds of shops selling souvenirs, clothing, etc. There are also several markets. Finally, I saw a laundry and gave my dirties to the women who work there. They told me about the Pension Mart\u0131 where I went and waited for an hour for someone to show up. I was tired, and it felt good to sit in the sun.<\/p>\n<p>Finally, Menderes, the proprietor, showed up and gave me a room with three beds. It had no curtain on the windows, but I didn\u2019t care. If someone wanted to watch me undress, they were welcome to the show. Pension Mart\u0131 has a neglected appearance. I can\u2019t tell if this is the result of a lack of money or lack of will. The property looks poor and uncared for. Menderes is a former fisherman. He introduces himself but not his wife, who is sitting with him.<\/p>\n<p>I napped in the afternoon after a walk along the main street to scope out the restaurants. I ate a pide in a place called Dallas. It wasn\u2019t very good.<\/p>\n<p>In the evening I sat with Menderes and sipped whiskey from my metal cup. Six or eight men that looked like laborers were getting a grill ready to cook chicken. The problem was that the pan holding the fire had no bottom vents to create a draft. The men took turns furiously waving a board to get the fire started. After they had cooked themselves a heap of chicken, Menderes took his turn and cooked chicken stuffed with cheese for the two of us. It tasted good along with big helpings of salad. I slept well, better than I have in a while.<\/p>\n<p><strong>23<sup>rd<\/sup> day. Tekirova \u2013 Phaselis \u2013 Tekirova. 8 kilometers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The morning began with my mistakenly locking my room key in the room. As I had no idea where Menderes lived, I had to wait half an hour for him to show up. He gave me a ring of about 20 keys, and I tried them all twice with no luck. Finally, Menderes cut the screen off the one window that was open so that I could crawl through. I felt bad about the incident.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_348\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-348\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-348\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0460-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Ruin at Phaselis\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0460-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0460-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0460-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0460.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-348\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruin at Phaselis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>After a quick breakfast, I took a light pack and set off to visit the ruins of Phaselis, which should have been only an hour away by foot. Somehow though, after passing Sundance Camp, I took a wrong turn and went the long way around. It was 11 a.m. by the time I arrived at the ruins.<\/p>\n<p>There were many visitors today. It\u2019s a popular place with tour groups. From its location it\u2019s easy to see why it was an important city in ancient times. Its peninsula setting is magnificent. It had three ports connected by a broad main street. Along this street are the remains of agoras and baths. There is also the ruin of the aqueduct that brought water to the town. Above the main street in a hillside is a well-preserved theatre that would hold 1,500 people. There is even part of the stage wall remaining.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_349\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-349\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-349\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0467-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Party Boats at Phaselis\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0467-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0467-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0467-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0467.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-349\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Party Boats at Phaselis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>In the southwestern port, several party boats had gathered. Holidaymakers were laughing and swimming. The surrounding mountains provided a majestic background. I took photos and drank some fresh-squeezed orange juice.<\/p>\n<p>Going back to the Sundance Camp was much quicker. I only had to climb up then down a steep path over the ridge that separates Phaselis Beach with the one by the Sundance Camp.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_347\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-347\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-347\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0452-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Sundance Camp\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0452-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0452-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0452-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0452.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-347\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sundance Camp<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>1:40 pm: I\u2019m sitting at a restaurant table at Sundance Camp. This is a laid-back spot that has bungalows and a good restaurant. It\u2019s remote and not overrun with tourists of the kind seen at Phaselis.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_350\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-350\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-350\" src=\"http:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0475-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Anita\" width=\"660\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0475-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0475-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0475-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0475.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-350\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anita<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>A short while ago, as I sat here, an East German woman named Anita joined me. She had been looking for an adventure holiday when she came upon a guide to the Lycian Way. It\u2019s her first time in Turkey and she loves it. The friendliness of the Turks impresses her. She says in Germany, the people are not so. She loves the weather as well. She has a tent and has been camping. She started walking in Ka\u015f towards Antalya. We shared some common experiences.<\/p>\n<p>The Sundance Camp is a special place. I would gladly bring Kay there for two or three days. It is wonderfully relaxing. There is a beach, a good restaurant, and horses to ride. The people I see here seem like those we would be comfortable around.<\/p>\n<p>My long walk on the Lycian Way is finished. It\u2019s been a unique and positive experience. I\u2019ve tested myself and seen that even at the age of 67 I can still do a lot.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve learned that April is the right month to do this trek and that if I want to camp, I need a tent. The other item I would definitely include is a pair of work gloves to wear when gathering firewood, etc.<\/p>\n<p>The hiking poles are a good idea. They\u2019ve saved my knees on the descent and helped going uphill as well. I got a good upper body workout from them. They\u2019re indispensable for crossing streams on logs and slippery stones.<\/p>\n<p>6:30 p.m.: I\u2019m sitting in the common area of the Pension Mart\u0131, sipping whiskey and waiting for dinner. M\u2019s family, including a daughter and granddaughter, are here, and fish is promised for the meal.<\/p>\n<p>The Pension Mart\u0131 has two interesting animals. A large German shepherd is magnificent, but spends most of his time tethered near his doghouse. The other is young cat, jet black with huge greenish eyes. It makes me think of the TV cat called Midnight on the Buster Brown show, one of early television\u2019s offerings that I watched as a kid. Midnight had only one thing to say, \u201cnice,\u201d the word dubbed in.<\/p>\n<p><em>It was here in Tekirova, with my walk to Phaselis and back, that I ended my trek. I could have walked further, but I was getting tired. I also felt satisfied with what I had done and was ready to go home. I caught a bus and rode the last 50 kilometers to Antalya where I stayed a couple days to relax visit the city\u2019s wonderful archeological museum, one of Turkey\u2019s finest. I also treated myself to a full-body massage. Heaven. <\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>I don\u2019t know if I\u2019ll ever do another long walk, but if I do I\u2019ll feel more prepared that I had before I did this one.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>April &#8212; May, 2010 For me, the Lycian Way, so named because it traverses a region along southern Turkey\u2019s Mediterranean Coast that was once ancient Lycia, was a rugged, 500-kilometer, trekking challenge that Britain\u2019s Sunday Times rates as one of the world\u2019s ten best walks. Could I do it? Were my spirit and 67-year-old body &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/2010\/05\/10\/walking-the-lycian-way\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Walking the Lycian Way<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":300,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCN0154.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/299"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=299"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/299\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":577,"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/299\/revisions\/577"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/300"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=299"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=299"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.goingplaces43.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=299"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}